Pattern Information

Here you will find standard information about all of my patterns. This covers everything from standard abbreviations, how to read the pattern, technique guides and more. If you can't find the answer you're looking for please contact me here.

Also check out my YouTube channel for tutorial videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnBIaKBjnBPo493ZhuCyVu-cwkdvBlgIb

Technique tutorials

Knitting in the round: ‘knitting in the round with circular needles for beginners’ by Sheep & Stitch

German short rows: ‘german short rows’ blog by Åsa Tricosa & ‘german short rows tutorial’ by Purl Soho on YouTube

Folded hem bind off: There are multiple ways to achieve the folded hem bind off, I suggest the blog post “How to Bind Off a Folded Edge - Lovely by Lee” to get you started.

Folded hem after bind off: Folded hem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8JcjzMmuVQ

2x2 tubular bind off: There are many techniques for a 2x2 tubular bind off, I like option 2 from the “Invisible Bind Offs for 2x2 Ribbing, Including a Tubular BO, a Comparison of 3 different methods” tutorial by Knitting with Suzanne Bryan on YouTube.

Underarm seams for drop shoulder garments (inc. Melissa Cardigan): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSHmewfhinY

Large buttonholes in double knitted band: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0kYlSmW4-w

German Short Rows

In order to keep my patterns a bit less wordy I do not specify any wrapping or slipping of stitches during my explanation of short rows. They will typically they will be written in one fo two ways depending on the age of the pattern as follows:

" Using the GSR method:

1. Knit X sts, turn

2. purl X sts, turn

repeat rows 1 & 2 for a total of X times. "

In this case you will work the stated number of stitches, then you will turn the work, slip the stitch as indicated in the tutorials and continue. You will then repeat the rows until you have done the stated TOTAL number of repeats, which includes the ones you have just done.

or

" You will now be working short rows back and forth to make the back of the neck higher than the front, using the German short row technique to turn:

1. Knit X sts, GSR turn

2. purl X sts, GSR turn

repeat rows 1 & 2 a further X times. "

In this case you will work the stated number of stitches, then you will turn the work, slip the stitch as indicated in the tutorials and continue. You will then repeat the stated rows a further X times, NOT inlcuding the rows you've already worked.

Tutorials: ‘german short rows’ blog by Åsa Tricosa & ‘german short rows tutorial’ by Purl Soho on YouTube

Some of my patterns contain charted German Short Rows including the Hayley Sweater and Slipover, check out the video tutorial for more information on how to read charted short rows:

Yardage

Each pattern will provide you with the estimated amount of yarn needed for each size. This will almost always be in both grams and meters. If you are knitting with a yarn with the same meters/100g as the suggested yarn you can make your yarn purchase based upon the number of grams needed. However if you are using a yarn with a different meters/100g you should purchased your yarns based upon the total meters required for your size. When buying yarn take into consideration that if you plan to lengthen the body or sleeves you will need more yarn. It is also worth pointing out that I DO NOT overestimate the amount of yarn you will need, as such the amount stated is more or less exactly what you will need, this is to prevent you from having loads of yarn left over, but it does mean that if you plan to make any modifications you should buy more yarn than stated. Each of my patterns also has a section at the end of the pattern that gives you information on the yardage and yarn used by test knitters along with any modifications they made. This is really handy if you plan to use a different yarn to the suggested yarn.

Choosing Yarn

Gauge and Swatching

Knitting in the round:

If you find that your flat and in the round gauge differ a lot, check both a flat and in the round gauges. Follow this guide for more information on how to make a swatch in the round: https://ysolda.com/blogs/journal/swatch-in-the-round

Stretched gauges:

Several of my patterns ask you to measure a stretched gauge, typically summer tops, tight fitting garments and garments in rib designs. Read the instructions carefully for each pattern, but generally, unless otherwise stated the stretched gauge is for the amount of stretch that you'd like to see in the final garment, not as stretched as possible. You can stretch your swatch out during blocking or after blocking, just make sure you secure it in place which taking the measurement.

Using non-wool yarns:

When using silk or plant based fibres it is really important to block your swatch and stretch the ribbing out to your desired level of stretch before measuring the gauge. These fibres (especially cotton) can grow over time with wear, if you find you are between sizes or your gauge is slightly off consider this and choose a smaller size. If you cannot achieve both stitch and row gauge, focus on stitch gauge and take into consideration that any length measurements in the size chart will be affected.

Visit this link for in depth instructions on how to make a gauge swatch: https://www.hirismakes.com/post/what-is-knitting-gauge-and-how-to-calculate-it

Choosing a size

Reading lace charts

They are nowhere near as complicated as they look. Basically read them line by line and just do exactly what it says. I know that sounds obvious, but sometimes it can seem strange. This is a good blog post to help you out: https://www.mscleaver.com/chronicles/2018/4/26/reading-lace-charts-a-tutorial

Where do I pick up stitches for the shoulders on top down garments?

The left shoulder is your left as if you are wearing the garment, the right is your right side as if you are wearing the garment.

Unless otherwise stated, you will have the right side of the back piece facing you with its cast on edge at the top. You will pick up stitches for the left shoulder from the neck side toward the left shoulder and for the right shoulder you will pick up from the right outside edge inwards towards the neck. This is best described with a diagram:

What do you mean by picking up stitches?

There is some confusion in the knitting world about "picking up stitches" vs "pick up and knit". In ALL of my patterns, unless very clearly stated picking up stitches means to pick up stitches using a new piece of yarn. This may be in a knit fashion but may also be in knit/purl ribbing, I therefore do not use the term "pick up and knit" because it's not always knit stitches. I hope that makes sense.

How do I attach the straps to the back of a top?

Always try the top on before attaching the straps to the back to make sure they are the right length and that you get the positioning correct. While trying the top on I like to place a removable marker on the stitches at the back that I plan to attach the strap to. A neat way to attach an icord or other strap to the back is using a kitchener join. Place the same number of stitches as you have in your strap at the back on an extra needle then join with a kitchener join.

The following video is a good guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJFvoxvrg0k

Substituting wool for cotton

Substituting wool for cotton can have an impact on the design and feel of a knitted garment. While wool has natural elasticity and can hold its shape well, cotton does not, which can result in a garment that does not hold its shape as well over time.

Standard Abbreviations

CO	Cast on
BOR	Beginning of round
K	Knit
P	Purl
RS	Right side
WS	Wrong side
sts	Stitches
M1L	Make one left
M1R	Make one right
M1LP	Make one left purlwise
M1RP	Make one right purlwise